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Liquorice goes classy
From dime store to dining room

WRITER
Jonas Lindberg
You may enjoy it sweet, salty, soft or hard, or as an ingredient or flavour in jam, tea, bread, spirits or soft drinks. You may simply enjoy it as candy, or take in its subtle aroma as an herb used to flavour tobacco. Although liquorice has been a common ingredient in kitchens and medicine chests for ages, it now seems to have been rediscovered by those who manufacture the finer things in life. It is shedding its humble image as a gnarled root and going black, smooth, glossy and fragrant. Liquorice is definitely the up–and–coming celebrity herb, and what better way to celebrate its new status than with a liquorice festival!

A visit to the liquorice festival in Stockholm in April confirmed the complete makeover of this flavourful root, and I began to see liquorice for the sophisticated delicacy that it was. Products from such diverse places as Australia and Iceland proved just how popular liquorice is across the globe, and the salesmen presented diverse ways of enjoying it. While browsing through the multitude of gourmet liquorice products at the festival it was hard not to remember the way liquorice, at least in candy form, used to just be cheap and fun. Now it is presented as something that goes well together with your espresso, wine or even cheese.

When talking about this new way of consuming liquorice, many people compare it to the chocolate boom many years back. Chocolate has its own ancient origins in the cocoa bean, but like liquorice, it existed for many years mainly as a cheap and easy candy. But when the market went back to basics and explored the possibilities of pure cocoa, dark chocolate was reinvented. The same thing now seems to be happening for liquorice.






From the beginning, liquorice is extracted from the root of the Liquorice plant, Glycyrrhiza glabra, which grows in well–drained Mediterranean soils and with full sun exposure. You can eat the root fresh directly at the spot. Simply dig up the plant, wash the soil off the roots and chew a piece as a mouth freshener. The pure and unsweetened liquorice is bitter and intense. Although the tastes of liquorice and anise are similar, the Liquorice plant is a legume related to peas and beans, with no biological relations to Anise.

Claiming that liquorice is the "new chocolate" may not be too far off, but I realised I wasn´t going to learn more about this by sitting with a cup of liquorice tea and just thinking about it. Fortunately, there was one person at the festival who had a definite opinion on this matter. Tuija Räsänen, one of the organisers of the liquorice festival, was kind enough to share her opinion.

"What we experience now is definitely a liquorice trend. The interest started growing in Sweden about three years ago, and we saw an even greater demand after our first festival in 2009. That festival was a success and the visitors wanted more of it, so for the event in 2010 we wanted to double the size of the festival, with twice as much space, twice as many exhibitors and twice as many visitors. Afterwards, when we summed things up, we were glad to see that there had been three times as many visitors as in 2009."

Besides organizing the liquorice festival, Tuija Räsänen runs her two stores Chokladbutiken.se and Lakritsbutiken.se and organizes liquorice tasting events. To describe her work as an interest is an understatement. Tuija´s passion for liquorice is life–consuming, which also makes her a top liquorice connoisseur. I didn´t want to miss the opportunity to get a few tips from her. Some personal favourites.

"Right now my favourites are sweet Finnish liquorice from Kouvolan, pastilles from IFA in Norway and pure liquorice from Amarelli in Italy. The fine thing about liquorice is that you can use it in so many ways; desserts, pastries, pasta, even spa–products and much more."

As always, some things survive trends and some don´t, and time will tell which of all these new ways of having liquorice will stay with us.




Although there will always be a few liquorice products that just won´t be for me, such as liquorice tea it turned out, it seems that the rich, woody taste of liquorice may soon be entering our lives and taste buds in a variety of ways.



Photos on page 1, 3 and 5 are published with permission of Lakrids

Photos on page 4 are taken by Inger Blad and Charlotte Carlberg.

Photo on page 6 is taken by Lakritsfestivalen


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